Jan. 19, 1883. I started With Mr James Hardy from Buenos Aires by the evening train to visit Gandara, a station on the Southern Spine, before finally starting for "Los Gauchos". The object of our first visiting Gandara was that Mr James might go over a very large estancia there called "Vitel" where there were 60.000 sheep to be sold by auction & I had to accompany him (not unwillingly) as interpreter.
We took with us Mr James's 2 dogs - Beppo de Burgh, a Golden setter & Dart the young Scotch Collie. Besides this we had our traps, saddles, & guns -(I having previously purchased a good English one from a gentleman near Buenos Aires, as I knew it would be very useful at "Los Gauchos" when we should get nothing but mutton & hard camp biscuit, besides what we would shoot.
We arrived at Gandara between 9 & 10 p.m. just after a fearful thunderstorm with a prospect of an uncomfortable night as 2 Spaniards in the train had told us that there was no accommodation whatever to be had, - except at one little "almacen" near the station, & that it would be impossible to procure horses. Leaving our traps at the little station we made for the "almacen" which was fortunately kept by 2 very decent French people, who instantly welcomed us - got us supper - gave us a clean little room for the night with the promise of 2 horses @ 5 a.m.
Jan. 20. Rose about 4.45 a.m. & after a cup of tea we saddled up & rode off for "Vitel". It was magnificent riding at a hard gallop over the open camp with the fresh morning air & the sun just up & I felt quite sorry when we arrived at the estancia house when we turned our horses loose to find their own way home.
The book-keeper took charge of us & took us round to inspect the (page2) blood-stock & to see a few of the nearer corrals. On our way back to the house we passed the magnificent laguna of Chascomus, a veritable inland sea, though very shallow, from this laguna came great quantities of very fine fish of a peculiar species, which are considered rather a delicacy in Buenos Aires. Leading from the house to the laguna were some magnificent avenues of poplars & paradise trees - some of them half a mile long & about 40 feet high. One of the 3 owners of the place was expected over that morning & as he had not arrived, we adjourned to the garden where we regaled in some delicious pears. Soon after Mr Gowland & his son arrived & we went in to breakfast. This gentleman though a native spoke English & was able to give Mr James the desired information as to the sheep. (Before this I had to interpret everything.)
After breakfast Mr Gowland gave us down the names of the flocks (or "puesto") he considered the pick of the lot, as we had no time to see the 60,000. He had 2 horses saddled for us & sent an intelligent person to show us the way. When we went out to mount I noticed they had put my saddle on a very skittish looking horse, so telling Mr. G - I could not ride well, I asked him if it was safe. He said he thought so but that it was very spirited & rather tender in the mouth, so that I must be careful not to use the curb bit, but ride him on the snaffle as the horses there were not accustomed to English bridles. I strapped my mackintosh-coat to the saddle, flung my poncho across & mounted, but before I was fairly seated he "cleared out" as it is called here (in English ran away.) It was useless to try to stop him & all would have gone well, had not my poncho slipped on one side, & to save that I leant down over the side to catch it - first then the horse swerved violently at a clump of thistles & as I was on one side I could not keep my hold & came off backwards onto my right shoulder before I knew where I was. Fortunately my feet cleared the stirrups or I should have been badly hurt - as it was - I picked (Page 3) myself up, just as my horse disappeared on the horizon - with 5 or 6 in full chase, who I suspect had followed in anticipation of a smash up. In about 20 minutes they were back with the horse after a hard gallop of a mile or 2. The peon who gave him me said the reason of his clearing out was, that I had strapped my coat too loosely to the saddle which had frightened him as it flapped up & down on his back. However I remounted sadder & wiser with an inward determination to steer clear of mackintosh coats in the future. We rode all that afternoon as hard as we could gallop from one puesto to another examining the sheep - cattle & mares. Each time we stopped, came my usual round of questions to the gentle shepherd -i.e.- What is the name of this puesto? How many sheep have you got? In what partido are you? etc. etc. - all of which were noted down by Mr James after sundown about 8 p.m. having been in the saddle since first after 11 a.m. most of the time going at a hard gallop. The ride back at sunset was most lovely & I thoroughly enjoyed it, except that every 2 minutes my horse tried to break away home, for as we were riding in an opposite direction I suppose he was wanting supper & didn't see the fun of taking me to mine first. Perhaps he did his best to further that notion but without success. Not until reaching Gandara did I think about my arm but then I felt it paining me & found I had strained it so that I could not raise it above my elbow. (I am writing all this in the rancho here Los Gauchos & the flies are so thick as almost to suck the ink off the paper so you must excuse all errors etc. - as they (the flies) are teazing me so much, that I can scarcely write at all.) After a little supper we retired pretty well done up but not to our clean little room, (which was given up to one of the owners of "Vitel" who arrived late & had to stop then the night) but to a little room with a bare brick floor & 2 catres by way of furniture.
Before going further (page 4) I may as well explain what a catre is. Imagine 2 cross pieces of wood (similar to those of a camp stool) connected by a long narrow piece each side & a piece of rough sacking nailed across that & you have a good idea of a catre - thus
This is the usual camp bed. You must not show this rough diagram to Edwin or I am half afraid he will be down on me in his next about my peculiar views as to perspective.
This aforesaid catre felt very hard to my aching bones that night & @ 5.30 a.m we had to turn out to catch the train to Altamarino @ 6.33. a.m. This is the pindien where you take the train for Azul "en route" for the South.
Jan.21. Sunday, We caught the train by a push & got into Altamarino early where we had to wait about 3 hours for the train from B.A. which was to bring Mr Ackerly & then we were all to go on by it to Azul. During the time we waited I was able to get some quiet reading as the station-master let us sit in his office. Still it seemed a strange way to pass Sunday - on a journey, but we were obliged to go on that day to have time to go round Azul before the diligence started for "Los Gauchos".
It was a long hot & dusty journey down to Azul & we killed a lot of cattle going along, as the rails are not fenced in.
Every time we heard the whistle blowing we knew we were approaching some doomed animals & out of the windows would fly a long row of heads to see, amid the clouds of dust - the dark forms of the poor cattle as they were hurled dead from the line by the powerful cow-catcher.
We reached Azul late - hot - dusty & very tired & after a little dinner retired to our sleepless couches to be devoured by mosquitoes & brichos colarados. I think I never past a worse night taking my bad arm, aching limbs, mosquitoes etc., etc. all together.
page 5 Jan.22. Rose early & were overjoyed to find that there was actually a bath room at the Hotel - complete with shower etc. It would really have done credit to a swell English Hotel instead of being in an old house in what was till recently an Indian Frontier town. I never so felt the comfort of it in my life after the hot & dirty journey on the previous afternoon & the mosquitoes in the night - indeed my face was so fearfully swollen with the bites that you would scarcely have recognised me at home. Directly after breakfast we went out to see if we could buy a "tropilla" of horses anywhere, as Mr James & Mr. A purpose riding the whole way through to "Los Gauchos" visiting estancia to inspect stock on the way down.
Ultimately information as to where horses were to be had was given us, & Mr. James & Mr. A started with a guide at 3 p.m. to ride some 300 miles to "Los Gauchos". I was to have gone with them, but as Mr James had brought the 2 dogs which certainly could not travel all the way & my arm being still very shaky I decided to go by "galera" (diligence) & look after all our luggage. After they had gone I thought I had better look up the diligence office at once, as it (the galera) left @ 1 a.m. (Tuesday morning).
When I got there I saw the headman who told me it was impossible to take the dogs unless I got them packed in a large case. It was then past 4 p.m. & I have to return to the Hotel give the dogs a good feed & then hunt round the town for a case. At last I found one to fit the two & hired a man to take it round to the diligence office for me. When I got there I found it nearly all in pieces, & so I had to set to work in the yard in the hot sun & with my bad arm to make up a crate for the dogs. With tools it would have been easy, but all I could get the loan of was an old hammer & a few nails & an old piece of a wheel that I used for a chisel. I had to make 2 holes for their heads & leave a piece of the lid loose to get them in & out of, as it was a long journey. At last I finished, got some alfalfa for (page 6) a bed for them & left them in charge of the "mayoral" who promised to put them in about 12 p.m.
Pretty well tired I went back to the hotel to dinner & after that I rested for 2 or 3 hours & then started off for the diligence office.
Here is a rough sketch of the horrible machine I had to be jolted in for 36 hours. I had previously engaged the "pescante" (the seat by the coachman - so called because from it the long whip is used on the horses in a similar manner to a fishing rod.) They use 7 & sometimes 8 or 9 horses to draw it - & the front pairs are fastened on to a long chain that is attached to the shaft. At about 1.30 a.m. we started in the bright moonlight with another diligence following with luggage etc. - on to this the case with the dogs in it, was strapped.
Jan. 23. After getting clean of Azul we flew long over the camp for about 2 hours - changing horses every 9 miles - until the cargo wagon smashed up & then we had to wait 2 hours while they mended it. How I stamped up & down in the cold moonlight to try & keep my toes warm! & it was cold -
While they were mending the "carga" wagon I happened to be standing near it talking to a Spaniard & I suppose old Beppo must have heard my voice, for a minute after I heard a scuffling in the case on top - then I saw the outline of Mr. Beppo 's head & finally he broke loose -the man not having fastened the case properly. I had to climb to the top of the pile dragging up the heavy dog after me & after a lot of trouble got him secured again.
At last we started & still kept tearing away over the camp at the same mad rate. How we raced along - through swamps -into ruts - over knolls - till I had to hold on to save myself from falling. Though it was moonlight I could only just see the dim outline of the form of the gaucho who rode the near (page 7) horse of the leading pair, so far do they keep one pair from another.
Overhead the Southern Cross shone beautifully & I could see for the first time how useful it is out on the prairies where there is not even a house or a tree to guide by. The day dawned gradually - very cold & sharp, but we had a lovely sunrise, & soon after passed through the "Boca de las Sierras", the first pass I had seen in S. America. The mountains remind me very much of Wales except for a splendid herd of deer that were grazing on the side of one of them. Just there the gaucho who drove the second pair (I can't call him a postillion - he was so ragged) fell with his horse on top of him & I thought he must be killed for we were going at such a terrific pace that the "mayoral" could not pull up in time. However instead of being hurt he got up with a loud laugh - fixed up the harness & rode on as though nothing had happened. (These Gauchos think it a disgrace if they didn't always fall on their feet when being thrown from a horse.)
It would tire you to describe the journey too minutely but to give you an idea of the speed we travelled at, I may say the diligence runs 210 miles in 2 days including short stoppages. At midday we reached Juarez where we had breakfast & changed into an other "galera", still keeping up the same speed, and changing horses every 3 leagues. Nothing worth telling you occurred during the afternoon except our sticking in 2 or 3 swamps & arroyos & late at night we arrived at the "Tigra" 150 miles from Azul which we had travelled in about 16 hours including 2 hours in Juarez for breakfast etc. - so you see we travelled at an average rate of about 12 miles an hour, for we had about 10 minutes or so at each posting station to deduct from the total amount. The "Tigra was only a small "pulperia" where we had a little dinner & 2 hours rest on a "catre". (I may as well explain what a "pulperia" is. It is the general store, bake house, public-house, hotel, club, in fact everything in one. (page 8)
It rather startles you at first to see, on entering one, bars either of iron or wood through which the things are served to the gauchos. Of course the respectable persons are allowed to pass inside so that you seem inside a large cage with lots of wild animals (gauchos) drinking outside. The reason they have the bars fixed so is because of the desperate fights that often take place outside, when of course the landlord, who is often justice of the peace is quite safe & does not get mixed up with the brawl.
Jan. 24. We left the "Tigra" at 2 p.m. again & I was so tired that I could not help going off to sleep on the "pescante" & every minute or so the "mayoral" would be waking me up to ask me if I wished to fall off, but it was no good I had not slept properly for 3 days & I could not resist it & it was a wonder I did not fall off. At about 4 p.m. we reached "La Rosa del Sud" & after some delay set off on our last stage of my journey. We had to cross the "Quen Quen Salado", a very large arroyo with precipitous banks all a hundred feet high.
It must be a fearful pass in bad weather for we crossed with some difficulty under the easiest circumstances. About 4 or 5 years back the Indians came in & laid an ambush in the worst place & murdered every soul in the galera but there is no fear of that now. At about 6 p.m. we arrived at Santandren & I got all my traps out & the dogs & went into the house to look for O'Reilly who was to meet me with horses to ride over to the estancia 15 miles or so, but he had not come. So I found out Santandren the owner of the pulperia, estancia, etc. & he looked after all my things & promised to lend a horse & guide to go over, but about 10 minutes after O'Reilly turned up & my troubles were over. I will never again take charge of another person's dogs for a journey, for they were a great anxiety to me - if they had broken loose on the journey they would certainly have been stolen.
Page 3
Jan. 24. After O'Reilly's arrival we had a little chat over things in general & then leaving instructions to have my traps put in the cart which was on its way over for them we started for the estancia about 14 miles away with the dogs following behind. As we rode on the camp seemed rough & broken in many places & quite different to the land inside. Here there are thousands of little animals like a very small guinea pig called I believe "Jucas" which completely undermines & honeycombs vast tracts of camp rendering riding most dangerous & difficult. Of these innumerable holes I soon became aware as my horse all but fell nearby a dozen times. Besides there place there are what are termed "biscacheras", or deep holes made by an animal called the biscacho, which is much longer that a rabbit & fierce when wounded. These holes are generally in clusters or 5 or 6 together & at nightfall the biscachos came to the mouths of these & give a very peculiar cry accompanied by a good deal of grunting. At that time they are easily killed & I have been out shooting them on moonlight nights.
The camp here is not entirely flat but rises & falls in long grassy swells, & as there is not a single tree for a landmark, it is extremely difficult to travel: even if you do sight a ranch, (which are very few & miles between each one) you are into a hollow & lose it again. About half way over we saw a large herd of deer but they would not wait till we could come up & make a friendly inspection.
After an hour & a half's ride we sighted the ranch away in a hollow before us on the slope of a long bank, that borders the "Laguna Blancia" so called from the whiteness of the mud on wall round it. In this is a nice maize plot - some fine potatoes- & a few onions etc. Besides this there are some thousand puny trees, which have been raised from seed & which will in a few months be planted in the estancia. Opposite the gunita(?) is a galpon (or shed) in which stands a good strong cart & a few rough implements. By the side of the galpan stands the corralles for the sheep. The flock here numbers 2600 odd & is in very fine condition. At present there is only one other flock here, looked after by a man named Murphy who has another ranch about a league away. His flock numbers close on 2000 & are all fine sheep. The view from the ranch is very varied & good - for the camp - when one usually sees nothing but a flat plain. On the right hand side the land slopes down to the bed of the laguna which is dry at this end of summer but in the winter the sheet of water must be more than half a mile long. Away behind on the far distant horizon are the Pugcuinko (?) (I can't answer for the spelling of this as it is Indian) Mountains & to the left of those the fine peak of the Sierra de la Ventana. The estancia is altogether about 5¾ square leagues in size = in English measure, more or less 50 square miles, so you see there is plenty of room for more sheep. After dinner I went out with O'Reilly to shoot biscachos as it was bright moonlight & we shot two.
Jan. 25. Early in the morning about 6 a.m. Fraser took me out for a walk round the laguna etc. It was a beautifully fresh morning with a strong breeze blowing & I enjoyed the walk very much. I shot some fine partridges & in the laguna I saw about 500 duck & water fowl, which rose in a dense mass before I could get close enough for a shot. They are very difficult to get near as the shores of the laguna are quite bare & there is no cover whatever to shield you from their sight. Just as we got back to the ranch an enormous hare dashed past which one of the dogs had caught I believe & then it had got away again. I shot it at about 60 yards away & when I examined the fur it was wet as though a dog had caught it with his teeth. Still the skin was unhurt & I took it off & tanned it & it now hangs on the wall here. The hares here are beautiful creatures double the size of those in England & of a speckled grey colour with white beneath. In the evening I had supper "al Gaucho" off an "asado" or roast. This is generally a sheep's side thrust in a large spit which is stuck in the ground at the back of the large chimney. A fire is then made in front of the dried turf's from the sheep "corollas" & fat, which soon cooks it.
When nearly done salt water from a bottle is poured over it & it is placed in hot ashes to finish. Then the spit with the frizzling joint upon it is taken up & planted firmly in the centre of the mud floor in our front sitting room? All gather round it seated on whatever is to be found, generally little low stools or a cow's head & often the floor itself. Every knife is whipped out & at it you go, cutting off huge pieces & eating them with your fingers. The Gauchos proper, cut a long strip & putting one end in their mouth cut off the mouthfuls close to their lips, with their large knives - going close that you would think they would cut off the end of their noses. I had bought a fine hunting knife before leaving B.A. so was well prepared & after once learning the way got on very well. When you get down to the ribs it is considered very bad manners? to cut off more than one rib at a time & if you made that mistake the gauchos would think you ill-bred. So much for my first asado which was very good indeed.
Jan.26. Up early & at work with O'Reilly over some business which we had to write in to B.A. about, & we only finished just in time to snatch a hasty breakfast, saddle our horses & gallop off as hard as we could for Santandren in order to catch the galera for B.A. (Page 4) that left there at 4 p.m. that afternoon. Unfortunately we missed our way & had to make a circuit of 4 miles extra to get there, & were just in time to send our letter by the galera.
We did not get back till 6 p.m. as on our way we called up at "La Blanca" a pulperia(?) about a mile away from the ranch to get a little bread, which is considered a delicacy in the camp. The usual substitute being hard biscuits. We had ridden over 30 miles - 15 miles each way at a hard gallop without any check, but I did not feel very tired & as it was not quite dark we started off to try & shoot some ducks for supper. We shot 2 but Beppo could not retrieve them - I think it was too dark for him to see them, for he is a splendid game dog & has been trained from a pup by Mr James.
Jan.27. After breakfast I started off on horseback with O'Reilly to go & see Tom Murphy & his flock, taking our guns with us, to try & shoot some deer. You would have laughed to see me with my Panama Hat turned down over my eyes - the old brown jersey, a leather belt in which hung my large hunting knife, & my gun slung over my shoulder. In fact we both looked so formidable that O'Reilly was afraid if we came to any native's ranch, we should not be admitted. After half an hour's ride we sighted a fine herd of deer & I got off & stalked them but could not get nearer that 150 yards, a very long shot. Still I fired one ball so close that it dropped one buck - whether he fell from fright as the ball whistled over him or whether he was slightly wounded I don't know, but he got off safe enough before we could run him down. The afternoon was very hot & the "tabanas" (a very large horse fly) were very bad & O'Reilly 's horse was streaming with blood on his breast & we were both badly bitten.
At last we arrived at Tom's ranch - a good plain made (next page) structure, but unfurnished except for a plank or two to sleep on & a small hearth, but no chimney. He made us mate, which we sucked all round complacently. In fact I am getting quite to like it despite having to use the same pipe to suck through as everyone else. Wherever you go here out comes the mate & is sucked all round in common. 0n our way back from Tom's we shot a lot of fine partridges which we reserved for our arrival of Mr James & Mr A, who we expected that evening. Just as we were finishing supper the dogs began to bark furiously & out we ran, as Mr James & Mr Ackerly with guide & "tropilla" came up to the door. They had lost their way & had very nearly to camp out for the night. Great were the tales they had to give after riding more that 300 miles across country. Of course they were dreadfully tired & the whole "tropilla" of horses were knocked up as they had ridden them till they nearly dropped. At one place on the road after going all day with scarcely anything to eat, they came to a pulpena when the man would not take them in, or give them any food & they had to ride on & camp out for the night.
Jan. 28. Sunday. We went out for a long walk before breakfast & while out came across a poisonous snake which we killed. There are several classes of them here - some I hear very deadly. After breakfast I read for an hour or two & then wrote part of this diary. In the evening we had another short stroll & then retired.
Jan. 29. Early in the morning we all started off with O'Reilly to ride round the boundaries of the camp towards the South. Large iron poles called "mahones" are placed at distances of a mile & a half apart, so that you can see it is not easy to find even the boundary - as a narrow iron rod is not a very conspicuous object at such a distance. Mr James took his rifle & I my gun in hopes forgetting a chance shot or two as we rode along. After riding a league or so, we turned off from the boundary & made tracks for Tom's ranch. As we had had no breakfast, Tom cooked us a splendid "asado" which was from one of the fattest sheep I have seen in the country. We all sat round & cut it in the same manner I described previously. Mounting again we rode on across the boundary of the estancia on to another man's camp. Here the scene changes & instead of being on flat grassy pampas we were riding through wide & sloping valleys which are called "Naciented de Los Gauchos" (or the head of a small river "Los Gauchos"). Crossing the bed of the arroyo, nearly dry with the heat, we rode through a very fine herd of wild cattle. It is a singular thing that these wild cattle some of them enormously powerful, never thinks of attacking you on horseback, but if unmounted they would make straight for you.
We rode on again & recrossed into our own camp & made a close inspection of the Southern boundaries & then made for a small rancho in the distance, when we got a drink of water as the sun was fearfully hot. Leaving then we rode off to find another "mahone" which we knew ought to be at a certain corner, but were unsuccessful & nearly got lost as well. Just then a young boy from the rancho we had just visited rode up & while we were asking him our way, his dogs made off in chase of a young deer. We all instantly followed & after a long & hard gallop - (during which the gun over my shoulder nearly bumped my sides all to pieces. Mem.! Never carry a gun over your back if you are giving to ride very fast, or you will come home (next page) with your sides black & blue) - we came up with them & caught the deer alive which proved to be a nice young doe. We tied its legs up & O'Reilly slung it over his saddle, but before we had gone another mile it died. This same young fellow was telling us about the lions near there which only a few nights before had killed 37 sheep. The lions here are not large as the African species, but more like puma & about the same size, but still they would be ugly enough customers to tackle unless you are well armed. Of course we were delighted to hear about them & got all particulars we could as to where their caves were, before coming away. We rode straight home down the centre of the estancia passing many deer on the way & one or two ostrich s but though Mr James tried a good many times he did not shoot any, as they would not let him get nearer than 200 to 300 yards. All we took back was a few partridges for supper as we had been in the saddle all day long. After supper each one bought in his "catre", made it up with rugs etc. & then to sleep. (Every night we have to first fetch our beds in & then make them. I fortunately brought a sheet from Buenos Aires which when doubled over does duty to two. This with my rug & poncho makes a very fair bed, though it feels a little harder than a spring mattress.)
Jan. 30. A very wet morning but about noon it cleared a little & I went out with Mr James to try & get a few duck. On the way to the far end of the laguna Mr James shot some partridges. At last we arrived at a marshy spot which had been filled with water by the rain & on this water we saw a nice lot of birds quietly resting so Mr James crept forward through the reeds to take the 1st shot, asking me to remain behind & take them overhead as they rose. (Page 5
Mr James shot 3 large ones but I got no chance, as when they rose they flew the opposite way. Mr James then returned to the rancho as he was going out with Mr A & O'Reilly to inspect part of the camp but I stopped, determined to shoot something before returning.
After floundering through the mud & water, sometimes nearly knee deep for about an hour during which time I could not get near a single bird, it came on to rain heavily. I at once made home & turned into the "paja" or high grass, that grew round the laguna to make a short cut for the house. The short cut turned out badly, as the paja was wet & I took the wrong direction & got in deeper & deeper till the grass was 4 feet above my head & so thick I could scarcely force my way through it. As I knew there were plenty of tiger-cat & poisonous snake in the grass I was a nimble as I could be in my movements, & trod rather lightly, but it was half an hour before I emerged from the grass wet to the skin & with poor old Beppo streaming just as though he had just come out of the water. (Another useful Mem- Don't try short cuts!) When I got back I changed everything, had some tea & started again & was this time more successful bringing in a variety of birds. Beside partridge I got a "Tire! Tire!" so called from its peculiar cry, a beautiful gull & some plover etc. The gull I tried to stuff, but it is not a very great success.
Jan. 31. On this day we had determined to have a grand lion hunt & after breakfast we started to try & find their caves. We were 8 in all. Mr James, Mr. Ackerly O'Reilly, Friday, Fraser, Pedro & your humble servant all well mounted. Besides this we took the cart with us to carry the spades, crowbars etc. which we knew we should want to dig them out with. By way of offensive & defensive weapons we mustarded 3 guns, one repeating rifle & 5 or 6 good revolvers (next page) which we though were enough to polish off all the lion in the neighbourhood. After half an hour gallop we came upon an enormous herd of deer, but they kept well out of range. A little further on we came upon a beautiful doe lying down not more than 50 yards off. Now was the time for a shot but unfortunately I had left my gun in its case unmounted, in the cart, which was some way behind. Just then up rode Mr James & instantly dismounted & after stalking a few yards, he fired & it fell dead. We soon had it skinned & in the cart. We had gone 100 yards further when we came across a beautiful buck, also lying down. I instantly rode back to the cart & got my gun, but arrived too late, for Mr James had shot it in my absence. I really felt provoked for I had carried my gun, day after day over my back in hopes of getting near enough for a shot, & then the first chance I got I had no gun with me. We rode on again for another 10 miles or so & came to a small rancho, near which was a doubtful piece of boundary which had to be examined & measured. After some delay this was completed & then we dug some turf & piled it to mark the spot. All this had taken time & the sun was already high in the heaven before we turned our horses headsto the supposed direction of the lion s caves. We rode steadily forward for an hour & a half passing through a part of the camp well stocked with game. We found some fine eggs - one large ostrich egg & some most lovely green ones of a bird called the "martineta" a very fine partridge - double the size of the ordinary birds. I have never seen such lovely eggs as these. They are pale green enamelled over, & about he size of a hen's egg. Two I have kept & blown & hope to send to you. A little further on we came upon a fine ostrich to which we gave chase, but could not come up with. (next page) Even the gaucho here say it is impossible to come up with them, if they do not get near enough to ball them in the first 500 yards. (They generally use the "bolas" when chasing game - These are made with 2 stone balls, covered with leather & attached to a leather thong. With these they are able to kill at a great distance, whirling them rapidly round their heads & discharging them at the unfortunate animal. who becomes completely entangled & falls an easy prey.)
We had a great hunt for young ones, because we suspected from the hesitating manner of the mother that she had some with her, but we could not find any. Riding on again we killed 2 peludas a peculiar little animal of the armadillo type. These are very good when eaten, though they don't look very inviting. One I took the shell from, & hope someday to end it home. At last we reached the supposed vicinity of the caves, where we spread out in line to hunt for them. After a long search we only found one which they had left for good, or were out spending the day somewhere. After a long consultation we found that the "vaqueano" had bought us to the wrong spot & that there was yet a league or two more to the real place.
Already the sun was getting low & we were a long long way from home so disappointed & reluctantly, we turned our horses heads back & started for our long ride. On the way home we shot some partridges, a martineta, some snipe & caught a large "pichi" an animal similar to the "peluda" before mentioned. So our bag for the day was not to bad after all - 2 deer- 2 peludas- 1 pinchi - 3 or 4 brace partridge - 1 splendid "martineta" (as big as a young turkey) 2 or 3 brace of snipe & plover - 1 ostrich egg - 6 lovely martineta's eggs, & some partridge eggs. On the way back some of the horses knocked up completely & Mr James & Mr A. had to dismount & transfer to the old cart. Mine kept fresh enough, & I raced Pedro & Man Friday home getting in first.
Feb. 1. Early in the morning we started to see some lots of cattle for sale some leagues away. The party consisted of Mr James, Mr A- O'Reilly, Fraser & your H- s-. After a ride of about 10 miles, during which we passed through about 3 miles of camp covered with "esparto" grass. We arrived at the 1st place we sought. After a little pow-wow & the inevitable mate, we started for the cattle which were parted out for inspection. I need not go into the merits of the herd, but may I say the price was too high & they were belonging to 3 different persons - the father was an old man long past 80 & yet hard at work on horseback with the rest parting cattle. I suppose he will ride till he falls to pieces, so tough & dried up do the old Gaucho get here. Leaving there we rode on to another rancho to see a fine troop of mares, but as they had stampeded the night before, we could not see them. So we went & sat down in the little mud drawing-room ? (& kitchen) & took mate after mate. Bidding them "Good day" we rode on to Fraser's rancho & after inspecting his flock came back here for the midday meal. After partaking of this & a little "siesta" I started with Mr James for the laguna where we had seen 4 splendid swans of a species different to those in England. Arrived then we saw the provoking swans sitting quietly about a quarter of a mile out in the laguna. I saw there was no chance of a shot from the shore, so took off my socks & boots & waded into the laguna to get near them. The mud was nearly up to my knees & it was hard work advancing. Before I could get near enough, they all rose & I took a long shot but the gun would not carry so far, so I had all my trouble for nothing, for the swans flew away over the camp to some other piece of water. On our way back we got a "great partridge" perodise grande a very large species with differently coloured feathers. We ate him for supper. (Page 6)
Feb.2. We started @ 10 a.m. to see some cattle which were for sale. After seeing these we turned off for Santandren, as Mr. Ackerly & Man Friday had to go in again by the galera. It was a long tiring ride - 30 miles in all & we had to ride very fast to be in time to catch the galera. I was pretty well knocked up when we reached Santandren for I was not well when we started.
The horses were quite done up, & though we had bought 2 spare ones with us, we were afraid that we should not be able to get back before night - another 14 miles or so. After seeing Mr. A & Friday off we started & from that time till when we reached home I think I never was so tortured. The horse I changed to had a very rough gallop & I was feeling dreadfully bilious etc. We nearly had to camp out for the night, as the night was so dark that O'Reilly thought we were lost.
Eventually we reached the rancho @ abt. 10 p.m.
Feb. 3. In the morning I kept in to rest as I was still rather seedy.
After breakfast I started off with Mr. James on Shank's mare (all the horses being done up) to walk over some of the boundaries. We took our guns & each carried a long cane - ball of twine etc. We easily sighted the corner mahon with my glass & after reaching that we took the direction of the boundary with compass & then measured the distance to the next by stepping it. The iron mahones are a long way apart - usually one is not visible from the other, but there as a wooden one always between. We were at work on the boundary all afternoon till as the sun was very low I proposed we should make tracks for home. This we did taking directions & steering by the compass.
After going about a mile I thought I heard shouts & soon we discovered O'Reilly & Johnnie the peon riding towards us. They had been "campiaring" for us thinking we were lost - shouting till they were hoarse & firing revolvers off. We of course laughed & said we were (next page) all right as we had the compass, but I believe if they had not come we should have been lost as it was pitch dark when we got home.
Feb. 4. Sunday. A most lovely day, not too hot, & a pleasant breeze. I read with Mr James in the morning & helped him with the translation of the Spanish Bible. I was at work most of the afternoon writing this diary as I get so few chances during the week. (At the present time I am a fortnight behind, to-day boing Feb. 18th)
Feb.5. Up early & at work curing sheep. Out here they use Tobacco extract for curing the scab which is mixed in a peat tub. A point of sheep (as it is called) is then separated from the flock & driven into one of the enclosures in the corral.
You then walk through them & when you see one with any scab you catch it by the hind leg - turn it over on its back with a twist & then apply the "remedio" by hand. Part of the time I caught sheep for the rest & the other I poured the medicine from a narrow necked bottle on the bad places while the other rubbed it in.
It is pretty hard work, stooping so much with the dust from the corral blowing into your eyes so that you can scarcely see.
During the morning it came on wet so we had to knock off work & I came in & commenced a sketch of the kitchen with the "asado" roasting in the spit. After breakfast @ 12 a.m. Mr. James & I set to work to make a chimney for the rancho. We found the lining of an old case - zinc - which we cut up & rolled into a chimney fastening it with wire. When finished I mounted on the thatch with Pedro & we placed it over the hole through which the smoke before escaped, & fastened it down with some wire we twisted. It looks splendid & I can guarantee is the only chimney for 30 or 40 miles round. (next page)
Feb. 6. All started early for a long ride to see some cattle which were for sale - at 3 different places. Shortly after starting it came on to rain heavily & we found our mackintosh coats useful. After riding about 10 miles we crossed the "Indio Rico" & arrived at the 1st place we sought. After a long delay we saw the cattle, but they were too dear. Leaving then we suddenly came upon a troop of masquerades, who rode furiously up & when almost touching us threw their horses back on their haunches & commenced to chatter all at once.
Then each one shook hands all round, & away they went as hard as they could tear. The were all absurdly dressed with hideous masks - some of them representing animals, wore real fur - & mounted on painted horses. It was the last day of Carnival, which was being kept up in the camp. (In Buenos Aires it is an enormous affair. The 3 principal streets are turned into a "corso" & for 3 days it is full of carriages moving in one long procession - with masquerades on foot & on horseback. Thousands & thousands of "pomos" or squirts full of scent are sold, with which they deluge each other in the street. Altogether it is a most childish affair.)
Riding on again for some miles we came to the "Que Quen Salado" which I have mentioned before. The banks of this arroyo are usually precipitous & about 30 to 40 feet in height.
It is so narrow, that when riding in the camp, you would never suspect you were approaching it - till almost on the verge - both banks being of an equal height. We went into the "pulperra" there & had a little lunch, & then started with the owner of it to see his cattle. On the way we passed the spot where a poor "Bas-que" was drowned 2 days before, as he was crossing the arroyo in a cart. "Fraser" the Scotchman here, buried him just on the bank where they found the body. A little lower down we forded (next page) the stream which was covered with every description of wild-fowls.
Flocks of enormous geese, hundreds of duck - water hen - swans etc. made up a sight not easily forgotten for the river was black with them in some places. There & then we arranged to come for a few days' shooting, which pleasant trip we never had owing to the sad & sudden death of dear old Beppo.
After seeing the cattle we again recrossed the "Que Quen Salado" & started off in another direction for the house of the man who had a large "manada" of mares for sale. (I had very much wished to go to see some fine old ruins on the "Que Quen Salado" lower down, which are the remains of the "Campimento Viego". There is a very high watch tower from which they could see the Indians coming in over the plains & a curious old fort. Fraser tells me they would have been well worth sketching. The Indians made raids here as recently as 5 years ago, but there is no danger now as they are pushed much further back by the new frontiers. Many are the tales you hear here of horrible raids & narrow escapes.) After seeing the mares we made tracks for home which we reached long after sun-down having ridden nearly 45 miles.
Feb. 7. Letters out from town by "galera" but none from home for me. Nearly a month since I had the last. The others were out curing sheep in the morning, but I was in as I had a sore throat & besides that there was a long account to be made up, to send in by the galera the next day, in connection with the estancia.
I was at work on these all the afternoon nearly, as well.
Feb. 8. After finishing up our correspondence & taking a hasty breakfast, I started off with Mr James & Fraser & Beppo for a long ride.
Our object was to get information as to where the lion caves were as we much wished to have a good day's hunt at them. (Page 7)
It was a fearfully hot afternoon & the "tabanas" were very bad.
Before we had gone 2 or 3 miles I noticed that Beppo had dropped behind a good bit. So we stopped for him & when he came up I noticed that he was panting badly & looked done up.
I suggested that we should return with him, but Mr. J. thought it was unnecessary so we rode on again past Tom's puesto every now & then stopping for Beppo, who seemed getting exhausted. Leaving Tom's puesto we rode on to try & find the "Vaca Chico" & on the way we rose a magnificent "martineta". As I had 2 partridge shots in my pocket I dismounted & whistled for Beppo who came up & set the bird further on. When he rose my cartridge missed fired & I failed to hit him with the other as he was too far away. Mounting again we rode on - poor old Beppo panting badly & running in the shadow of my horse to escape a little of the heat.
Presently I missed him & we stopped & could see him lying down a quarter of a mile behind. So Mr. James asked us to ride on to a rancho away in the distance to try & get the required information about the lion, while he awaited our return.
After riding a mile or two, we crossed a deep hollow & on ascending the opposite side we came upon a herd of deer quietly feeding. Now for my chance - Quickly dismounting & taking off my cap, I lay down & commenced worming my way through the grass towards a magnificent buck with large antlers. When I got within 30 yards of him he started & looked anxiously round but as I lay quite still he continued brushing the flies off his back. Just then I remembered my gun was loaded with small shot, but there was no time to draw the charge, so I fired & hit him right behind the shoulder, but the shot was too small & only wounded him slightly. It was only a matter of time then to (next page) secure him, for as he was wounded, we must have run hard down when he got faint from loss of blood.
Fraser would not hear of chasing him, as he said the sun was low & if we were not quick we should be lost in the camp & besides that Mr. James was waiting behind & that he might lose himself as well. So I gave in at last, as he was sure I should get plenty more chances. (I am very sorry now, for that was the only chance I have had & I would willingly have stopped out one night to send you a fine stag's head. As it when we rejoined Mr. James, he spent half-an-hour chasing one which he never shot - which time would have most likely been enough for me to get mine.)
When we returned to Mr. James we found poor Beppo quite exhausted & lying down, but Mr. J did not think it was much & tried to urge him on. He tried hard to keep his legs for another quarter of a mile, & then fell completely exhausted.
We were obliged to lift him up & put him across Fraser's saddlebow but we made very slow progress, as he was very heavy & it was as much as Fraser could do to hold him up at all. After a slow weary ride of 6 miles we arrived at Tom's "presto". There we dismounted & placed poor Beppo in one of the sheep troughs, but he was so far exhausted that we had to hold his head above water, for he had no strength to do it himself. After half an hour in the water he revived a little & could just raise his head, but I had made up my mind for the worst, from the very beginning & did not hesitate to tell Mr. James that I knew he was dying. The sun had long set & we had still 5 miles to go in the dark & it was out of the question to attempt to shake poor Beppo with another ride, so we got some hides & made a warm corner under the eaves of the rancho & placed him carefully there before starting. (I believe that if we could only (next page) have got into the rancho & make a big fire that we might have saved him, but unfortunately Tom had driven his flock down to "ours", that very afternoon as we were going to cure his sheep the next day - so that the rancho was locked up & we could not get in.) So bidding a last "Farewell" to dear old Beppo who lay wrapped up in sheep skins & quite motionless with his eyes closed, we mounted & galloped off in the dark. As we rode off, I turned in my saddle & looked back once more & whistled for him as I always did, but no sign of response came back. Instead of starting up joyfully & coming bounding after me - there he lay so far gone, as not to be able even to raise his head. It was a sad ride back, & no one spoke scarcely the whole way, for though there was still a faint chance, yet we could scarcely hope to find him alive next day.
Feb. 9. Early in the morning Mr James & I got up, caught our horses & started off to Tom's pueto to see if poor Beppo was still alive. I took the precaution of asking Tom where I could find a spade & shovel, as I had a presentment that we should need them. As Fraser did not come with us to show the way, Mr. James kept away to my right, telling me to take my own direction & ride by myself not looking towards him to see which direction he was taking.
At last we came in sight of the rancho - I happening to come out a 1/4 of a mile nearer than Mr. James, who was too much to the right, so I urged on my horse as hard as I could, but when I was within 500 yards I knew it was all over, so I stopped at once, & quietly walked up to where poor Beppo lay. It was a glorious morning - with a brilliant sun which shone upon dew drops on the grass till they flashed like so many diamonds. Everything in nature was lovely & in perfect harmony - the rapid soft whistle of the partridge - the shrill cry of the tire-tire were the only sounds that broke the silence of the pampas; - looking around (next page) as far as the eye could reach, was one perfect circle of green sward, which quivered & bent under the soft breeze again, as the wind died away.
Everything seemed perfect, but there was a dull dark blot on the scene, which would rise up before your eyes which ever way you turned.
There lay the poor dog - stiff & rigid - with his glassy eyeballs fixed in the dull stare of death, & as the breeze swept over him, ruffling up his long silky hair, he looked handsome still. It was with heavy hearts we found the spades & searched for a quiet corner for a grave which no one would pass to disturb it. At last we found a spot close by an old corral & there we dug a deep grave & placed him in his last resting place. When we had refilled the grave we found some large handsome tufts of grass, which we planted over to hide the spot (for fear some native should disturb him to get possession of such a magnificent coat.) It was a very sad ride back - never felt so grieved about any pet before. Though I had only known Beppo for 2 months yet he was as obedient & true & faithful to me as he was to Mr. James. He could go through any amount of tricks - beg well & besides sitting on his hind legs with his paws up. Mr James had taught him a second thing. When he was sitting up begging he would say - "Good dog" -"now beg beautifully" & he would instantly turn up his eyes with languid expression & drop his head on one side, at the same time moving his free paws in a supplicating manner. Besides all this he could balance himself on 2 chair backs, when stretched out full length - jump backwards off them & many other things. He worked sheep splendidly, but his great point was setting game. He was so beautifully trained that if he was out with a shooting party, he would give each one in the field their regular turn - never forgetting or missing one. Literally after all the years spent in training him & money spent in bringing him out he was worth more than £100 - In fact I am sure Mr. James would not have sold him for a £1000 - As he said - it was the only link he had with home (Page 8) for Beppo was always considered one of the family. He was dreadfully cut up about it, & did not forget it for a long time, but would bring it up every hour or two. it must be very painful for him to live by his dog's grave - it may be for years - after bringing him all the way from Ireland. You will be saying - "Do leave off about this dog. it's getting too sentimental altogether" - but if you knew what a solitary place the camp is, you would understand how the loss of a faithful friend, who would at any time have risked his life for you (Beppo used to fly like a tiger at any suspicious looking man & would have been invaluable in the winter in a lonely rancho, where bad men are prowling about) would be felt. I did not forget it, for a long long time. In the afternoon we worked hard curing sheep, to try & drive the "blues" away.
Feb. 10. Early in the morning we started off for a ride of about 5 miles to choose 4 cows with their calves, from a heard, for which we had bargained previously. When we reached the place we found the man was not ready to start off with us for an hour or two, so we had to go in to the native rancho, & sit down & suck maté. I suppose there were 20 in the hut that served for a cook-house, & 2 mate cups were kept circling round for an hour or two. You get wonderfully accustomed to sucking from a common "bombillo" (pipe) which everyone uses, though the man who has previously sucked it, sitting next to you, is generally some horribly dirty old Gaucho. Life in the camp soon knocks the daintiness out of you. At last we started off to part out the cattle, which were among a wild herd. As we rode through them, every nice cow we asked for, the old native would say was "a wild one" or else "it belonged to somebody else" - till Mr. James got quite provoked. Eventually we picked out 3 all with nice calves & then rode on to another herd to choose the 4th. This was soon found (next page) in the shape of a cream coloured cow, but for all we could, it was impossible to part her out from the rest. It is very exciting work parting cattle, for they are usually very wild. I was mounted on Johnnie's racer which was supposed to be a very fine horse for working cattle, & I wanted to be useful - so tried my best to part out the cow, by racing round her -doubling, when she turned & when she stopped obstinately, I tried to ride her down 3 or 4 times, a most dangerous proceeding it seems, though of course I was too green to know about it until O'Reilly called me off.
The cattle understand all this they tell me, & it only when parting them or marketing them that they are truly dangerous, though they are all more or less wild. At last we got the old cow out from the rest & drove her on towards the other herd, where we were going to get the 3 we had first chosen, & drive them home. (Here allow me to make a short parenthesis - All this diary from Feb. 9th is being written in Buenos Aires & of course you must remember it is all from memory - the freshness of most of it, having passed away. I propose to make it last out now & only send 2 pages at a time, though it is written nearly a month after the real date). To return to the old cow - After getting them together we made a start - I kept my weather eye on our friend & rode just "abaft her right quarter" (nautical?).
She had a very sinister looking black eye - which she kept rolling about watching for an avenue of escape, where we could not stop her - 3 times she bolted & 3 times we cut her off & turned her but the 4th time we gave up, knowing we could never get such a wild wicked cow home & if we did we should not be able to milk her - so we chose another not quite so wild, & started.
Cattle driving is very interesting work, but in S. America with no roads of fences, it is not quite so easy as in England. For instance (next page) in England you drive over on straight roads, but in S. America on the pampas there are no such things & at one part of our way back where O'Reilly had to leave us - it was as much as Mr. James & I could do to keep the 8 cows & calves all together. One would head off one way, & one the other & it was necessary to keep riding round as hard as we could even then we made but slow progress. Of course it was useful experience & I am sure by the time we arrived at the rancho, I felt quite an old cattle drover, though I would not like to be among a S. American herd on foot, like the English drovers go. The first thing to be done was to make a "tambul" to tie them up to, to be milked. This is formed just of "nandubay" posts sunk deeply into the ground - with cross pieces attached. It was hard work sinking the holes & we had to use a crowbar as the earth was so hard beneath, but at last they were finished & the posts planted - just as an awful thunderstorm burst & we had to beat a precipitate retreat to the rancho. The thunder & lightening were most terrific for about 3 hours & there it eased off a little & Mr James & Johnny went out to tie the calves up to the "tambul" to prevent their mothers starting off home in the night. Just as the sun set, there was a most glorious rainbow - one so enormous I have never seen before - it seemed to span the entire arc of the heavens. Behind this rainbow it was still as black as night, but away to the west, the sun had burst through the clouds causing one of the most lovely effects I have ever seen.
Feb. 11th Sunday. Early in the morning we had to milk the cows, which we found were much milder than we anticipated - I believe they were frightened at us, as they had been accustomed to be milked by women. In the end we had to "lassar" (lasso) them & tie them up to the "tambul", besides strapping together their 2 hind (next page) legs. This would seem absurd in English but it is the custom out here. As usual we passed the morning in reading together & after the heat of the day was over we start for a short though pleasant ride.
Feb. 12. Early in the morning after the usual fun? of milking the cows we did some gardening in the quinta - preparing a large patch of ground for several new sorts of grass seeds in, by way of experimenting. As Fraser had given back to his sheep & O'Reilly was working, it fell to my share to cook the breakfast. I had cooked before several times, but had forgotten to tell you of it in the diary, so perhaps a description of the professional? mode of cooking a "potchero" will not be out of place here. The first thing is of course to light your fire. Taking a piece of rag around it. After lighting this you take some pieces of dry "bosta" & build them up, into a little square house placing the lighted fat inside. They must be built up regularly so as to leave plenty of room for air in side & also a few crevices to make a draught. If the "bosta" (turf from sheep corollas) is dry, you have a magnificent fire in 5 or 6 minutes without any smoke. (If you look at the little diagram (not included here) I hope to send home you will see where the fire is made & be able to imagine me sitting on a little box by the side skimming the big pot or turning the "asado;") After lighting the fire you was out the big saucepan - draw some water & put it on at once. Then of course you obtain the ingredients. On the particular morning I speak of, I made them a "potchero" consisting of fine meat - potatoes - onions - & choklas (young maize cobs delicious when properly cooked) you don't want to know how to cut up & wash the meat - peel potatoes etc. so I merely say you handle them promiscuously in the big pot, with a handful of rice. Well I thought that will make a very good breakfast, but I should like a little something extra "out of the Common" you know, so I determined to make
To be continued in our next. (as the ½d dreadfuls say) (Page 9)
Feb. 12th - some suet dumplings to surprise them. (My only knowledge of making paste etc. was obtained long ago - when I was a little boy & used to watch Mary making pies.)
I got some sheep's fat - milk - & flour & soon made them - chopping up the fat with my "falcon". In half an hour the dinner was ready & they were delighted hen they saw the dumplings - I daresay the first made so far South, for a hundred mile round. They were not heavy! & everyone enjoyed them but as Fraser was absent, when he rode over the next day I told him - all he said was "I'd rather not have tumbled overboard after eating 'em Mr. Paul" - this with a peculiar drop of one eyelid as much as to insinuate, they were so heavy that he would have sunk at once.
After breakfast (or dinner) we rode round one side of the camp to mark out some new "puestos" "corrals" & "jagueles" (wells) as Mr Hardy had purchased some 4 or 5 thousand sheep in turn, which Mr James had seen at Santa Clara as he rode through, & which he was going in to fetch in the following Wednesday - taking O'Reilly & the "peones" with him to drive them. After a lot of measuring we got three wells marked out & a carral close to each - the puestos were to be left until Mr. J.H's return. Two Englishmen wandered in the camp got the contract for the first 2 wells - corrals etc. & some natives the third.
Tuesday Feb. 13. Just after breakfast as I sprang over the little turf wall & ditch round the rancho, as I lighted on the ground, I saw a brilliant snake twisting up my leg. (page 10)
You may be sure I soon got rid of such an unwelcome acquaintance but fortunately it had done no harm. I at once got an old bottle - pushed him in & then poured "aguardiente" (spirits of wine) on him & he was dead in a few minutes.
It is a small snake beautiful marked & of a brilliant red colour beneath, O'Reilly & all the natives told me it was the most deadly of all - There is another very large one -"La Crivy" - so called from its having a black cross at the back of his head. I have caught the "La Crivy" twice. (I'm here (Buenos Aires) they all laugh at me for talking about poisonous snakes in the camp & say they were trying to gull (bamboozle) me down there - but I'll guarantee they would clear out pretty soon, if they saw them & anyway - would not like to be bitten.)
They are really no danger at all unless you sit on the ground close to a snake hole, so before lying down on the grass (when campIng out for instance) always examine the ground & if you can see small round holes that would just admit your finger, - first "move on" as the bobby says "it's all over - gentlemen - all over". After breakfast we started off to see the same cattle that we had previously been about, on Feb. 2nd I think it was. We had a splendid ride over - it was not too hot - just comfortable!- We did not arrive till late, say an hour & a half before sun-down & the man was out, so while the pem went to look for him, his wife made us some tea as a special favour I suppose, as we were English, but it was made in a funny old fashioned blue mug & we had to suck it through a "bombillo" the same way as mate, passing it round & round. My arm-chair? was a bullock's head, which to tell (Page 11) the truth was not at all uncomfortable s there is a little hollow just between the horns on which they place a small piece of skin for you to sit on.
At last the old man came & after a very long talk he would not drop his price below $210 m/c a head - It is true they were splendid cattle & comparatively tame & £1.15.0 may seem an absurdly low price, but we had a man over at the rancho who had ridden a long way to offer his cattle, for which he asked but £1.1O.O (m/c 190$) a head - a respectable difference when buying a large herd so Mr James decidedto leave it over until he had seen the others which were on the way to Santa Clara.
The sun was first setting as we started back & we had a long ride to get over, but it was a pleasant evening & the horses were fresh after a long rest, so we kept up a good pace reaching the rancho about 8.45 p.m. The only incident that occurred was - just as we got to the head of the "Laguna" the dogs dashed forward after some biscachos which were playing about their holes. Of course we kept up with them & in 2 minutes they had a beautifully fat young one - I jumped off & gave him the "coup de grace" with my "facon" & then we hung him over Mr. James saddle. (I'm sorry to say we forgot to eat him, but he looked rather "catty")
Feb. 14. Wednesday. Early in the morning Mr James - O'Reilly - Pedro -Johnnie - & a native who had cattle for sale, all started in for Santa Clara to fetch the 4500 sheep home.
As they expected to be more than a week gone I bid a tender? farewell to all as I had received my "recall" (to office) the day before & besides a great batch of letters from home - the (Page 12) first news I had had for a month. Fraser was left in charge of the rancho & stock etc. - so as soon as they were all gone & the bustle had subsided, we set to work to milk the cows-
Then I mounted & rode off to fetch up the rams which had gone off too far, but as I had forgotten to take a dog, it took me all my time to keep them together & drive them in the right direction. When I got back we set to work to cook a little breakfast & just then up rode one of the Englishmen (who was working with a comrade at a well in one corner of the camp) with a long tale about the Jamestown men who had the other contract.
He said they had taken away 2 picks & a spade, which they said belonged to them, & that consequently he could not proceed without fresh tools. It turned out that these natives, who Mr. James had told me to set to work when they arrived, had coolly gone off & commenced, without first coming for instructions or to hear the terms of their contract, so I rode over with Jimmy the Englishman & found them just beginning the well in a wrong direction with the tools they had taken from the others. So I just gave the gentlemen a little pure Castillian "wigging" & as they stuck out the tools belonging to them, I left them in possession & rode back with Jimmy. On the road home the dogs scented a fine grey fox & in two seconds we were all flying over the camp after him. My little horse quite entered into the fun & kept it up, not stopping for anything:- biscacheras !- he jumped them - or tumbled over them somehow, & I kept him up so close that when the dogs came up with the fox, I could not check him for 20 yards or so, & had to ride back again to the fight.
There was the big fox in the centre of the dogs, fighting savagely (Page 13)
I was so afraid they would spoil the skin, but at last we got them off & killed him. A few yards further we found another & had a similar run killing him too, so I got back to the rancho with 2 splendid skins.
After breakfast I had to write an order for the Englishman to go in to Santandren to fetch such things as were absolutely necessary to proceed with & then we gt the fox es skinned - staked on the ground & well rubbed with salt & alum.
(I am sorry to say that I forgot to take the bones out of the tails & they were completely spoilt & I had to cut them off.)
Then came the work of the evening - First I fetched up all the horses - shut them up in the corral - then we caught a fresh one to tie up for the night, a very necessary thing, as in the morning your other horses may be 2 or 3 miles away.
Then I rode off with the dogs & bought the flock home - then the rams, & shut them up in the "potiero". The poor cows were the last & most difficult job of all. It was necessary to fetch them all up, in order to catch the calves & tie them up to the "tambul" for the night, to prevent their mothers running away.
In vain you ride at an old cow - you may shout "Vaca! Vaca!" until you are hoarse - then you may try "Tambul! Tambul!" but still the old cow dodges or twists, but ! You just try a little gentle persuasion with the end of a leather "soga" (long thong of hide for tying horses) & they will go at a canter all the way in. The calves caught & tied up we go in to the humble meal which Fraser has been preparing while I went through the evolution's before described - After that - shut the sheep & then to bed - so "Goodnight".
It is so long since I wrote the last part of this that I'm afraid I have forgotten how far I had got but I think it was to Feb. 15th.
Feby. 15th (As it is now the 8th April you must excuse my forgetting half what happened nearly 2 months past.)
Early in the morning after a cup of tea - we shut the horses, caught & saddled one & then I started off for Tom's rancho as I wished to go with him to a man not far off to try & buy a couple of good hides to make "sogas" with, which we were greatly in need of. I took my gun to shoot anything I came across, but beyond seeing a few partridges which I had no time to stop for I met nothing during the ride.
I had steered so well that when Tom's ranch came into view I was right in front of it. When I came up I dismounted tied my horse to the "pelinke" & shouted for Tom - but no Tom to be seen. At last I found him out by the corral in a fit of the blues with a very long face & no wonder! for during the night, a lion had killed 6 fine fat sheep.
He had risen early fancying something was wrong & he found the flock scattered & on going further found 6 dead sheep lying in a straight line & about 20 yards between each.
Not one was eaten & there was no sign of anything wrong except just on the neck behind the head way a slight abrasion where the fatal paw had descended, breaking the poor animal's neck. This is the way they always kill sheep here, (Page 15) never touching them - unless to pick a dainty morsel off the beast. These so called lions are nothing but pumas, but if they can clear a corral wall 5 feet in height carrying a heavy sheep, as they have been known to do, you see they are tolerably strong. They rarely leave their caves by day & the only was to kill them is to track them to their cave & then dig them out & shoot them. Smoking-out is no good - they don't mind it much.
Well! I comforted poor old Tom up & promised him we would have a grand hunt in the afternoon, persuading him to come atoncetoJulio s with me to buy the hides.
We rode over & found Don Julio & all his family in - he did his best to entertain us - made some tea as a treat! (such stuff) & then had a long chat. All this was good but the bad part was, he had no hides for sale, & I knew the men at the wells would soon be wanting the "sogas" to draw the buckets up with. So with that we took our leave, being first presented with a little bunch of "sweet peas" each - Fancy! flowers out in the camp. They had these seeds sent them from Buenos Aires. Getting back to Tom's we cooked a potchero - of mutton & a partridge, I shot in the meantime.
After that we prepared for the hunt. Tom got a long cane & tired a greased rag to the end of it. this was to be poked into the cave alight, when his highness would begin to blow most furiously to put it out.
Tom lent me another horse that would stand fire without bolting & off we went.
After half a mile's ride we entered a long ravine (Page 16) which on either side was completely honeycombed with old "biscacheras" & "foxes caves" & Tom thought from the direction the lion took, he must have made for this hollow.
The details of the search would weary you for I'm sure they wearied me. It was a hot, glaring, afternoon & not a speck of a cloud to shield you from the vertical rays of the sun & as I sat on my horse with my heavy gun across my knee I nearly dropped off to sleep - the heat was so overpowering.
Old Tom worked steadily away at the caves - every time we found a likely one he was off his horse - down on his knees & thrusting the long cane into the mouth of the caves - but no response - no delightful or growl to cheer the heart of the hunter. After 2 or 3 hours of this desultory work - we reluctantly abandoned the field - as a heavy storm was gathering.
On the way home we sighted a fine buck which I stalked for some time but could not get into range. We then drove Tom's sheep home to water them. Meantime the storm had been gathering fast & already from all points of the horizon came flashes of fierce forked lightening which seemed still more vivid from the oppressive stillness which hung over the prairie.
Even the sheep waited quietly at the troughs as though eager to get their water & be off before the storm burst. Tom soon fastened the rope to the saddle of his horse & then mounting commenced pulling the water. Directly the large canvas bucket came to the top & was emptied of its contents - he quickly turned the horse & rode back thus lowering the bucket again, & so on. Presently I relieved him, as I wished to do (Page 17) everything practically in connection with sheep farming.
How those sheep did drink! They crowded & jostled each other like a London crowd at "My Lord Mayor's Show". some getting into the troughs - some climbing over others backs in their frantic haste to get at the water. But now the storm was fast nearing & already the first heavy drops were falling, & the distant mutter of the thunder grew louder & louder, till it seemed to resolve into one long never ending peal, that echoed & re-echoed from point to point.
Tom quickly caught a sheep - killed & skinned him & we were just inside the ranch when the deluge burst.
In 2 or 3 minutes the mud floor around the door was flooded with water & big drops came through the thatch, somehow or other always alighted on one's nose, no matter to what part of the rancho you move.
Dinner was speedily cooked & despatched & then we went out to look at the weather.
The storm had ceased & the moon was up, shining brilliantly through the rifts in the clouds: but the sheet lightening was as vivid as ever & it caused most lovely effects behind the clouds with the moonlight, in floods of violet orange & purple light. As it was out of the question for me to return that night we prepared to turn in & make the best of circumstances. A week before Tom had purchased a "catre" so he gave me that spreading his "recado" on the floor for himself. I did not wish to rob him of the "catre" but he insisted -saying he had slept on the ground for so long, he almost preferred it to a "catre" & so once more "Goodnight".
Kindly page there I've forgotten last number. (Page 18)
My Diary concluded.
Feb. 16th Friday. Tom & I were early astir - It was a dull morning & dark masses of clouds which came hurrying over the prairie did not seem to forebode a fine day.
I thought the best thing I could do was to hurry back to our ranch, for fear another storm might come & I had nothing with me but that little mackintosh cape.
As soon as Tom had caught the horses, we boiled some rice from which I made a good breakfast - then mounted & started back. It looked very threatening & I hurried my poor horse till my heels began to ache (just quiet? nudges in his sides to let him know what I wished) for I could not see the fun of being caught in one of those awful storms as I had my gun, which would be sure to attract the lightening. After an hour's hard gallop I came in sight of the rancho - as I rode up I saw the horses were out & as I wanted to change mine as he was tired, I set to work to shut them in the "potrero" - Just then down came the rain - no mistake about it, & by the time they were all shut - I was wet through. I soon got a change & a fresh horse & then rode over to "La Blanca" to ask them if they could find me a man to drive me in with my traps the next Tuesday in our cart - I saw the "patran" who promised to do his best for me - & After the usual chat I purchased some "creature comforts" in the shape of "dulee membrillo" & a small loaf of bread, & prepared to start back. I had brought with me a young horse of (Page 19) O'Reilly's - very spirited & one of the best looking ones we had.
He gave me a lot of trouble at starting - & it was as much as I could do to manage him coming over - & as I was afraid h might break away - I tied him up securely with an extra "cabarista" which I borrowed there.
When I went out to mount again he looked so wild that I was half afraid I should "make an exhibition" when mounting, so I called a pem to hold him -got on safely & then took the "creature comforts under my arm.
Away he went straight for home till we came to a ditch - instead of jumping it -he shied most fearfully nearly unseating me - as I thought it wiser to run the risk of a tumble than let go "that package" under my arm, which I was determined to stick to, as I lost some raisins one day riding back & did not wish for repetition of that. It was getting late when I reached the ranch- after which came the usual night work with the cows- calves - sheep - rams - horses etc. After supper we were just turning in when all the dogs commenced barking at once. Of course we thought the calves had got away or something, but as they were all sae & the dogs would not keep quiet we blew out the lamp & Fraser went out to reconnoitre, as he was suspicious of any one coming so late. To see in the camp on a dark night you have to stoop very very low & look along the horizon - This he tried at all points but in vain - we fancied we could hear horse hoofs in the distance by placing our ears to the ground but no-one was to be seen. (Page 20)
The dogs would not keep quiet for a long time after & Fraser thought someone must have been prowling around but of course it was not certain. If anyone does come late in the camp, the way is always to extinguish the light, for if not the person coming up can see you distinctly, which you can't see him, & of course you can't tell whether he is a friend or not -Fraser told me if anyone came up & would not answer nor give an account of himself, he would most certainly fire at him - or he nearly killed a drunken Gaucho one night who came to his ranch & would not answer when called to.
Fortunately he discovered the man was in an incapable condition before he fired. (Everything is safe enough at "Hibernia" now, for I am afraid I shall be giving wrong impressions of the place.)
Feby. 17th! Saturday, after usual work & breakfast I saddled up & started off to see how the man were getting on with the "jaqueles" taking my glasses with me, as they were working at 2 points of the camp some way off, where I had only been once before, as I am rather bad at seeing long distances & did not want to get lost. I made a tremendous "vuelta" going, as I mistook a ranch in the far distance for one I ought to have passed & nearly got lost. The glasses were of great use, not only then but all the time I was there. I found them both making good progress, & rode back in time for some lunch having enjoyed my ride very much. I ran 2 or 3 foxes but did not come up with one in time, because they (Page 21) make for their dens which are very plentiful.
Soon after Fraser started off to buy a hide some way off, & left me to look after the stock which I did by climbing on the cart, from which my glasses I could see the whole lot at one glance.
An hour after a cpataz from a distant estancia came to give particulars of cattle for sale, as he heard Mr James was buying. After taking down particulars -made some tea by pouring hot water on some old tea we had had, as I could not offer the usual "mate" as we had lost the "bambillo". Just then Fraser got back & at the same time a stranger rode up who asked permission to unsaddle which Fraser gave him & he came inside.
As I saw there were two then, I went inside & put a little fresh tea in, to make it respectable, remarking to Fraser out loud in English that I had done so - Fraser replied with a wink - "That will do very well for them Mr Paul" - When I gave it to the stranger who by the way had a long red beard, he answered in very good English "Thanks I shall enjoy a cup of tea - it is a long long time since I tasted any". I naturally felt rather small, after my previous remarks about the old tea, but it all went off pleasantly.
He turned out to be a Canadian & a very decent Man - Had just sold his sheep & was ready either for work or anything that might turn up & as he wished to wait till Mr. J.H. returned he stopped the night with us. He said he found his way to us by the chimney.
Transcribed by Geoffrey Corin